Baits—Crappies are in a positive feeding mood in spring, first as they hunt and fatten up for the spawn, then as they go into their annual growth spurt. In early spring, small minnows draw them into narrow channels and shallow bays. These inch-long fish are a staple, hence the popularity of “crappie minnows.”

Some aficionados who use only artificials for crappies claim greater success with marabou jigs, tubes, plastic tails, and other lures. The debate won’t be settled, as an almost equal number of anglers believes in livebait above all.

From earliest ice-out into the Postspawn Period, we always hedge our bets by bringing a selection of artificials, a bucket of minnows, and a box of waxworms. We’ve frequently watched several boats within casting distance of each other all pulling in fish with completely different baits—minnows on bare hooks, plastic tails on a jighead, and feathered jigs. At other times, crappies define the term finicky.

Then, minnows seem too active to entice crappies. Stillfishing a tiny hair jig or plastic tail under a float, or impaling a grub on a 1/64-ounce jighead, is the ticket. When crappies are more active, a lively minnow with lead shot set 4 or 5 inches above the bait allows it freedom of movement that turns crappies on. But in timber, including stake beds, stumps, and trees, active minnows can get into trouble fast. Go with plastics or hair, or at least restrict the minnow with a large shot just above the hook. Weedless jigheads like Lindy-Little Joe’s Timber Jig are another good choice.

In general, smaller baits and lures combined with a stationary presentation or slow retrieve work best in the colder water of early spring. As water warms, larger baits moving a bit faster take more and larger fish. Finally, in early summer, casting and slowly retrieving a 1/8-ounce lure often works best.

Boat control—In some waters, wading is an option in emergent grasses in shallow hard-bottom areas. Slinking along with a pole under your arm lets you approach crappies in shallow cover more subtly than with a boat, unless you paddle a canoe or scull a small aluminum craft.

An electric trolling motor allows for slowly moving through shallow cover, looking for fish and casting or dabbling. It’s important to stay back from the fish, as shadows from rods, boat noise, or the hum of the motor can alarm them. They may not swim off, but they’ll be much harder to tempt.

When breezes make positioning tough, either blowing you onto the spot you’re trying to fish or pulling you away and making casts into the wind a hassle, drop the hook. Anchoring with one or two anchors holds the boat on the spot without the noise and turbulence of a motor or paddle.

In shallow bays, a pair of large coffee cans filled with cement can pin a small boat nicely. Among thick brush or large fallen trees, a brush anchor or two may work better, since anchors often foul in timber and create disturbing vibrations when dropped in deeper water.

A final spring tactic is trolling, extremely effective for covering mid-depth areas with stumps and brush and when crappies hold in thick vegetation after the spawn. In southeastern reservoirs, spider-rigging is common—jon boats bristling with 8, 10, even 12 or more poles jutting across the bow and gunnels.