Integrating Anchored Bait Into Mobile Systems

The only rod on the market specifically designed as a deadstick is the “Deadstick” from Thorne Brothers (612/572-3782). The rod retails for around $50 and offers the right combination of an extra ultralight tip with a sturdy butt section. Rods from other companies will work so long as the rod has a light tip and offers at least some backbone to handle larger predators like walleyes. Tape a light spinner reel to the rod. I go with 2-pound line for bluegills, 4-pound for perch, 6- or 8-pound for walleyes; and settle on 6-pound line when I expect perch and walleyes on the same outing.

Minnowlining

Minnowlines, or handlines as they’re called in some areas, remain one of the best options for crappies and perch in situations where fish continue to move through a set spot. Minnowlining also works well to present tiny minnows (usually anchored with small leadhead jigs or teardrops) for outsized bluegills.

Hand-over-handing monofilament is difficult in icy weather. So the key to efficient minnowlining is to use dacron, usually something like a 27-pound-test line from companies like Gudebrod or Cortland. The new 50-pound-test braided or fused superlines work well, too, although they’re comparatively high priced for this duty.

About 3 feet of monofilament leader—usually 4-pound test—is tied to the end of the dacron by way of a small swivel tied into the line. Before connecting the dacron to the swivel, slide a Carlyle-style slip float onto the dacron main line. As I’ve said, usually the minnow is anchored with a small leadhead jig or a teardrop ice fly. The jig or teardrop should be just heavy enough to allow the minnow to swim so it attracts fish, but heavy enough so the minnow experiences difficulty getting away when a fish moves in.

File most of the barb from hooks to make minnow hooking and hook setting easier. Leave just enough barb to hold the minnow on the hook. Then, with the minnow facing away from you, barely nick the hook under the dorsal fin with the hook pointing away from you—toward the minnow’s head. This lets the minnow swim seductively, but most importantly, it increases hooking percentage. On tight-gapped jigs or tears, bend the hook out about 10 degrees or so to allow easier minnow hooking.

Perch usually prefer the bait within a foot of bottom. Crappies may be anywhere from top to bottom. A common scenario would be for crappies to move through during a sunset bite at 5 to 10 feet above bottom in about 30 feet of water. One approach would be to set your float so the bait is suspended about 8 feet above bottom. Cover more water by including a lift of 2 to 3 feet above the water. After lifting, drop the float slowly as you follow it down to the surface of the water.

You can extend the depth range fished by making this float rigging neutrally buoyant. Suspender floating requires a float coupled with a bait and line weighted with lead shot so the rig is barely heavier than neutrally buoyant. Drop the bait and shot down the hole, and as the bait settles, place the float daintily on the surface.

Water tension at the surface will keep it from sinking. Move the float and it will begin to barely sink. With your bait sinking ever so slowly, the slightest rod tip movement adds action to the bait. Now you can lift the bait above the hole as well as sink it in the hole, extending your fishing range. Bites, obviously, are registered as a halt in an otherwise steadily sinking float, or a twitch and faster sinking float.

Not fancy by today’s standards, but still works great incorporated into an aggressively mobile ice fishing system.