Maybe it’s the mug, the look of the cat that until recently kept it off the weigh-in stand and out of the pages of outdoor magazines. Trout may be more colorful and live in pristine settings, but a three-pounder is considered a trophy in most areas. Largemouth bass might be hard to fool, and smallmouth fight like crazy, but neither reach 50 pounds. Catch-and-release fanatics also remove the enjoyment from a bass or trout dinner. In the catfish, we have a class of fish that is widespread, can grow to over a hundred pounds, can be caught all year, and is often abundant enough to be harvested for superb dining.

Taken for granted, underappreciated, undermanaged, neglected, and downright unwanted in some states, catfish may be poised for a breakthrough—ready to take their rightful place among the more acclaimed sportfish that aren’t nearly so abundant and not nearly so big. It’s really a testament to the catfishes’ durability, that while so many people peruse them for money and for fun, under pressure from pollution and habitat destruction, fishing quality remains high and records still are broken. By that measure, it’s easy to wonder what catfishing might be like with a little restraint, a little practical research, and common-sense management—basically, with a little more attention.