Nobody likes getting his lure wedged in a snag, but getting snagged a time or two is part of the deal if you’re targeting walleyes around rocks. Submerged rocks—whether scattered or in a pile—attract all types of aquatic life. The more edges, steps, humps, and crevices, the more habitat for baitfish, panfish, bugs, larva, leeches, and crawfish. The culmination of habitat and feeding opportunities ultimately attracts walleyes to rocks.

Rules of the rocks—Most rocky locations at times attract walleyes. But the more key elements present often translates into attracting and holding more walleyes. Larger rockpiles or reefs, for instance, generally have more boulders, rocky outcroppings, points, troughs, and turns to key on to locate fish. Moderate wind blowing into a rocky shoreline attracts walleyes, especially if there’s a 1- to 3-foot-deep lip, creating a wall against which walleyes trap baitfish. Riprap along shorelines, causeways, and dams can be key spots, too. Even scattered rocks or boulders near current areas create resting and ambush places for walleyes.

The hours before and after sunrise generally are prime time on the rocks. In clear to moderately clear lakes, though, walleyes may not move into the shallows until after dark. Conversely, in darker stained water, walleyes may move in and out of these areas all day. In all cases, though, wind triggers action on rocks, particularly after several consecutive calm days.

When the wind first comes up, it’s often like someone hit a switch, and the bite can last all day and all night. Wind creates waves, which create current in shallower rocky locations, often activating baitfish and gamefish. Wind blowing into a rocky shoreline or over a reef topping out at 10 feet or less should produce. Areas that drop to deeper water can be key spots, too. Wind has less effect, though, on walleyes using reefs that top out at 20 feet or so. But don’t discount deep reefs, especially on calmer days.

Floating Around

Riprap, rocky shorelines, points, and reefs are prime candidates for float tactics. Float fishing is one of the best ways to make slow presentations at precise depths and spots—dangling a leech, nightcrawler, or minnow right in a walleye’s face.

Anchoring is the favored boat-control method for float fishing because you’re often targeting a specific spot. According to expert float angler Dr. Bruce Samson: “I actually use the float to slowly ‘troll’ livebait over rocks where I know fish are present. First I mark fish with my sonar, then I simply reposition and anchor the boat upwind and cast floats to the exact spot where I marked fish. I continue to feed out line, letting the float move the bait over the rocks.”

Bring a selection of both tall-thin and short-chunky floats for calm or windy conditions. Slip floats are easy to cast and the desired depth can be adjusted simply by sliding the bobber stop on the line. In heavy wind or waves, a larger, more-buoyant float may be needed. As wind subsides, use smaller floats fish can’t easily feel. Several lighted float designs are available for night duty. Most common are those with lithium battery inserts that cause a diode to glow red at the tip of the float.

Suspend livebait between eight inches and three feet from the bottom. Minnows work when the water temperature is below 50°F. Leeches and crawlers are preferred in water temperatures above 50°F.

Hook size is determined by bait size, but should range anywhere from a #2 to a #8. Kahle or wide-bend hooks have unique bends that excel for float fishing. Place enough split shot 12 inches to two feet from the jig to balance the float. Again, on windy days or when fish are biting light, add extra weight to cast father, slow the drift speed of the float, and prevent fussy fish from detecting the float. Slipfloats are most efficient with 7- to 81⁄2-foot rods (for better line and direction control) with a medium-power, fast-action tip, which allows for efficient casting and smooth, sweeping hooksets.