STEP 3: PICK THE RIGHT AREA.
Your next step is to obtain a hydrographic map of the lake. Good maps usually are available from local bait shops, and sometimes can be downloaded free of charge from the state fishery department's Web site. Commercial maps sometimes include notes and tips from local guides and fishing experts. These notes can be helpful, so long as you don't put too much stock in the advice. Remember that few guides give away their best spots, and some anglers are experts in title only.

Once you've obtained your map, study it carefully. Use a highlighter to mark all the 15- to 25-foot flats that are close to the deepest portion of the lake basin. Mark the main river channel, too, along with long sloping points that jut into deep water. These are the areas that usually attract the most and biggest channel cats from early summer through early fall. Some adjustments might be necessary for extremely deep or shallow lakes, but this depth range has proven successful for me at reservoirs across the Midwest and Midsouth.

Now get out on the water and run over these areas in the boat. Watch the bottom carefully on your sonar unit, and use a GPS unit to mark distinct holes, channel edges, or any other structural element that might hold fish. Rate these spots on your map, from those with the most potential (1), those with moderate potential (2), to backup spots to try when everything else fails (3). This systematic approach eliminates much of the guesswork when you're fishing. Spend more time scouting and evaluating than fishing during the first trip to unfamiliar water.

During summer, channel cats usually hold in deeper water during the day, then move onto shallower flats at night to feed. You might be able to catch fish during the day by slowly drifting baits through deep-water holding areas, but your odds of getting bit substantially increase after dark when the fish are more interested in feeding. The best feeding flats usually are close to the best daytime holding areas.

STEP 4: PLAN YOUR DRIFT.
The key point to remember is that the speed and direction your boat will drift is determined by the speed and direction of the wind. A good drifter never fights the wind, but usually works hard to make it work in his favor. If the wind is blowing harder than about 3 mph, for example, you'll probably need to deploy a drift sock or sea anchor to slow the speed of your drift. If there's no wind at all, you'll probably need to use an electric trolling motor to keep your boat moving.

The correct speed depends largely on the activity level of the fish. If you're night fishing a lake with a large channel cat population during midsummer, when the weather is stable and the fish are actively feeding, you can and should move much faster than you would earlier or later in the season. With experience, you'll learn to gauge the correct speed as soon as you hit the water. Until then, though, experiment. Err on the slow side until you gain confidence in drifting.

The direction of the drift is equally important. Look over your map before you launch your boat to determine which areas will provide the longest drift based on the prevailing wind direction. A few days of steady wind blowing into one section of the lake might concentrate fish in a small area, but this does little good if you can make only a short drift before running into shore. Especially during your first few trips, plan the longest possible drifts. This will allow you to learn drifting mechanics as you learn the lake.

One last point on this subject: leave your anchor at home. I've talked to many anglers who tried drifting for a few hours, didn't catch a fish, and went right back to fishing the way they always had. If you want to learn this method--and if you fish reservoirs, you should learn it--stick with it long enough to learn to do it correctly. Once you start catching fish, your confidence will dramatically increase.