Spinner Additions

Although the end hook is fixed, the upper hook can be made adjustable to change the distance between hooks. One way to do this is to slide a sleeve and the upper hook on the mainwire, and then make a second pass of the mainwire through the sleeve. The hook dangles on the loop, and the hook's position on the mainwire can be adjusted by working the sleeve-loop-hook trio up or down the wire. Then attach the end hook and swivel. The distance between hooks is typically 2 to 4 inches, depending on the size of the bait. Extending the distance between the hooks doesn't increase the hook up rate. The final rigs should be 15 to 20 inches long.

Another way to make the upper hook adjustable is to slide a piece of shrink tubing on the mainwire followed by the upper hook. Then pull the tubing over the hook eye holding the hook shank snug to the main wire after it's heated with a match or lighter.

SPINNER ADDITIONS

In some states, the addition of a spinner is necessary to make a quick-strike rig legal. All legalities aside, however, the added color and flash may offer advantages, and it's something we should consider regardless of what the technical definition of a lure is in your jurisdiction.

There are probably instances when the added color and flash helps attract pike from a distance or from close range in murkier water. The extra attraction might be just enough to make a pike commit when it otherwise might have remain tightlipped.

Experiment with four basic color patterns -- silver, gold, hot orange, and chartreuse. Stick to smaller spinner sizes #00 to #2. Directly thread the spinner (and maybe even a colored bead or two) on the wire just above the top hook. Add a quick-change clevis to rigs you build to change spinner colors in a snap. On pre-tied rigs, you either can snip off the swivel, add the spinner, and re-wrap, or clip the spinner to the wire with a small Cross-Lok snap.

Continued - click on page link below