Most walleyes in North America live in moderately clear water. Colors at the red-orange end of the spectrum penetrate quite well in those waters. Greens also penetrate well. So, in most waters walleyes inhabit, the colors they see well also penetrate well. Again, however, so far as we know, light must be present in order for walleyes to see color. And walleyes still probably don't discriminate color details the way other fish do. General color patterns are important. Minute detail is probably lost unless it's the right color or a contrasting color placed where it's obvious on a lure -- a large color spot or slash on a light background, for example.
One other note, here. Because of sun angles and light refraction through water and ice, sunset occurs about a half hour earlier below water than above. Likewise, sunrise occurs a half hour later below the ice. Walleyes have an extra hour of darkness. No wonder their eyes are so heavily packed with the type of cells (rods) that help them do well in dim light.
COLORS AND PATTERNS THAT WORK
So, we have to consider color and color patterning when light's present. Then, we must worry about the dark-light patterns projected by color patterning (the painting pattern) in dim light and after dark. Science seems to suggest, though, that only during the day in the early season, when ice offers a thin, clear covering over clearer waters, does light probably penetrate well enough for us to have to worry about any color details. Walleyes just don't discriminate subtle color differences that well except in perfect daylight. Even during the day, we mostly have to worry about general color patterns.
If all of this hurts your head and you don't want to hear much more, I'll tell you what I've found to work after tinkering with all this science out on the ice. At a minimum, play the two most fundamental color and pattern schemes, gold-minnow pattern and silver-minnow pattern, against each other on the waters you fish. The silver pattern is shadlike, minnowlike, alewifelike, and smeltlike. The gold pattern is bullheadlike, perchlike, and anything-else-like that has a darker color scheme. One or the other of these two patterns is enough like almost everything that swims to do a good general job almost anywhere.
Try playing these color schemes against each other, not just when you first begin the year, but off and on throughout the season, even when you switch spots on the same lake. Do this consistently for a season and you'll see that walleyes in some areas prefer one color scheme over the other. Not always, but often. Often, usually. Defining which of these two patterns is best can alone make a big difference in how many more walleyes you catch on an outing and, especially, over the course of the season. The right color is that important.
Note the comparative profiles offered by the #9 Jigging Rapala, #3 Nils Master Jigger, the #93 Nils Master Jigging Shad, the Salmo Chubby Darter, The Northland Mini Airplane Jig, and the new Rapala Jigging Shad Rap. Lures with more profile offer the opportunity for a more distinct display of color schemes and paint patterns. Editor In Chief Doug Stange tends to use the thinner profiles during bright light periods, switching to lures with more profile at twilight and especially after dark.
If that's all the farther you get, experimenting with color this season, you'll do fine. Still, it's easy to add at least one more color pattern to this modest plan. Most years in the lakes I fish most often, perch patterns are the most productive. The regular perch color scheme of the Jigging Rapala has, for example, been a consistent producer. It's a subtle color theme that relies on green, gold, and yellow, all colors walleyes see well, along with the black vertical slashes that are so distinct on perch.
Yes, I believe the slashes are an important part of the patterning. The science I've shared with you suggests that even in dim light, walleyes can see such markings, at least probably on larger lures like the #7 and #9 Rapala, the two most important lure sizes.
