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Drop-Shotting For Walleyes

by In-Fisherman   |  July 31st, 2012 0

We target walleyes near bottom because that’s where they seem to be most of the time in most waters. Dropping bait to bottom on a rig is one of the most common tactics. A rig in its simplest form is a hook tied on the line with a weight also placed somewhere on the line — possibly even on the hook. Where you place the weight and how much weight you use changes the way your bait is presented to fish, which sometimes can make all the difference in the world.

“The best thing about any type of rigging is that almost any hook, weight, and line will get the job done,” claims former walleye pro Eric Naig. “Fine-tuning your rig to match the conditions, however, often is the key to more walleyes. “When I worked with Berkley on their line of drop-shot plastics for bass fishing,” Naig explains, “I quickly found that drop-shot rigging works great for walleyes, too.

“Drop-shotting works particularly well when the fish are fussy and need to be teased into striking,” he explains, “but it also works great for snaggy or weedy bottom conditions. In some of the waters I fish in Iowa, for instance, a big growth of stringy moss completely covers the bottom. In fact, fishing a jig on bottom without getting slimed is impossible. Drop-shotting, though, allows for contacting bottom, yet keeping your bait above the moss and fish.”

Drop-shotting, in it’s simplest form, involves placing a weight at the end of the line, with a hook and bait set some distance above. The concept has long been used by crappie and perch anglers, who often set several dropper lines and baits off the main line. This keeps your bait a set distance from bottom — basically suspending your bait near bottom and walleyes. By placing the weight on bottom, you have full control of the lure’s working depth, which is effective when fish hold some distance above the bottom, for calling walleyes up off bottom, and for keeping your bait free of debris.

Drop-shot rigging is also an option for pitching into flooded timber or wood. And it’s effective in waters where zebra mussels and mussel carcasses cover the bottom, like on the Great Lakes.

Disturbing bottom sediment seems to attract and sometimes trigger fish. “When the weight hits bottom, the small explosion of sand or mud seems to attract fish and sometimes triggers them into activity. With drop-shotting, you can stir up the bottom and keep your bait above the cloud of sediment, so walleyes can see it better,” Naig says.

Drop-shot rigs are as simple to tie as they are to fish. The unique feature is the placement of the bait above the weight. To make the bait rest horizontally, the Palomar knot is the favorite. When tying the Palomar, insert the tag end of the line through the eye from the hook point side, and form the loop on the bend side. When you tighten the knot, the hook sticks straight out, positioning the bait correctly. The length of the tag end of line determines the distance from bait to weight.

“I generally tie the hook about 12 to 16 inches above the dropper,” Naig says. “Most important is to tie the hook so the point is positioned up, in the normal position, to get the most hooksets. If the gap is down, you miss a lot of fish.”

Most hook styles work, though Naig prefers octopus-style livebait hooks (#2 to #6). For fishing close to weededges or around woodcover, a small (#4 to #6) offset-shank light-wire hook is preferred. For minnow-style soft plastic baits, a wide-gap model works well.

Anglers have experimented with various types of weights to keep their drop-shot baits in the strike window. “Weighting the rig is easy. Almost any sinker in your tackle box will work. For deeper structure, though, I prefer 1/4- to 1/2-ounce bell sinkers. And along weededges or timber, heavier split shot, worm weights, or weights designed for drop-shot rigs are better options,” Naig says.

One concern is that weight placement puts the weight in constant peril of snagging. Some anglers favor the simplest method — pinching on a heavy lead shot. If the weight pulls off in a snag, it quickly can be replaced while saving the lure and hook. A surgeon’s knot sometimes is tied at the tag end, creating a loop that holds the shot more securely. It also allows the rig to be secured to a reel handle when running down the lake.

Most anglers tend to fish light low-visibility monofilament lines (4- to 6-pound test) for finesse fishing in clear water and for triggering finicky fish. Naig, for instance, prefers Berkley Vanish Fluorocarbon for finesse rigging deep, clear-water lakes. Heavier line, though, is required for drop-shotting around weeds or wood, or other snaggy conditions. A medium-action 6- to 7-foot spinning rod will suffice for walleyes.

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