Water clarity affects walleye behavior and location. On many western reservoirs, for example, wind sends waves crashing into shorelines, points, and bays, which mixes sediment into the water, creating a cloud of murky water (mudline) in the shallows. As wind continues to blow, the mudline spreads out over the basin like an oil slick.

Where the overall water clarity is fairly clear, walleyes and baitfish are attracted to shallow locations with dark water for food and shade. Darker water attracts other spawning fish, like perch and other baitfish, into the area.

Gilman believes, "Anytime you can find murky water, like bays, shorelines, or locations where maybe spawning carp are stirring up the bottom, walleyes should be nearby. I've fished calm lakes and had no action where the bottom was visible in 5 to 8 feet of water. Once the wind started to blow a few hours later, the same area was loaded with walleyes."

SKILLED PRESENTATIONS
Consider boat position when working shallow water to avoid spooking the walleyes, especially in clear water, but don't position your boat too far from the action. Keep close enough to stay in contact with your jig.

Gofron says, "If I've fished a spot in the past and know the layout, I anchor where I can cast downwind, which gives me ultimate boat control and feel of the jig. I simply fancast the area."

"I use a 6- to 6 1?2 foot medium-light spinning rod spooled with 4- to 6-pound mono for most pitching situations. According to Gilman, "If you're using a medium- or medium-heavy-action rod in shallow water and setting the hook at close distances, it's possible to set the hook too hard and lose fish. I use a 6-foot medium-light rod, which allows me to make accurate casts and still offers good sensitivity, yet it's limp enough to let me set the hook when a fish strikes close.

"I use 4-pound fluorescent Berkley XT Solar mono," Gofron says, "in combination with 1/16- to 1/8-ounce Northland long-shank jigs. I tie my jigs directly to the line, which doesn't seem to bother the walleyes. I always watch my line to detect jumps, pecks, and ticks that indicate a strike. I often catch fish that I don't feel hit the jig."

Gilman echoes Gofron's sentiments about the advantages of fluorescent monofilament: "Use line you can see and watch. Wind often blows your line, putting a slight bow between your rod tip and the point where line enters the water. Being able to watch the bow in my line and to see it jump when a fish strikes, even though I didn't feel a thing, puts a lot of fish in my boat. Clear lines would be my second choice, but low-visibility green is almost impossible to see."

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