Taller standing weeds (Area A) provide a bit more challenge, but nothing unsurmountable. The best bet generally is to switch to a bullet sinker and shorter spinner snell, say 15 to 18 inches instead of the traditional 30 to 40. It's OK to occasionally touch bottom or rub your rig against the outer weed stalks, because the slender sinker will slink on through, and the rotating blade should protect the hook from fouling, most of the time. If you frequently pick up foliage, switch to weedless hooks or to a single weedless hook on a spinner rig baited with a leech. Streamline and simplify, but don't sacrifice speed.

Do you see any submerged wood cover along the top of the flat adjacent to the drop-off, as is common on so many lowland flowage waters throughout the North Country? The same rigging should still perform well, scrambling over and across remnant wood meeting the drop-off. Snag resistance and speed are a deadly combo under the summer sun. Plus some color, flash, and vibration for increased visibility in dark or stained waters.

Need more speed, vibration, and triggering capabilities to trigger strikes? Enter crankbaits, which push the envelope to 3 or 4 mph. Switch to longline trolling with an outboard motor if necessary to provide the additional oomph to make those baits zoom along structural edges.

Traditional walleye crankbaits are long and slender with more wiggle than wobble -- baits like Rapalas, Rogues, ThunderSticks -- but they also tend to excel at slower trolling speeds of 1 to 3 mph, typically applied in cooler water. At 3 to 4 mph, they may spin out of control, while shad imitations like Shad Raps continue to run true and send out more vibration and flash. Slightly bulkier baits like Bomber Model A's and Manns' Stretch series tend to perform better at these higher speeds, and their durable plastic construction stands up to whacking rocks at a fast clip. You have choices. Try some of each, and let the fish determine which they want to bite.

Trolling clean edges -- drop-offs with rock-sand bottoms (Area B) -- is easy. Select a crankbait model designed to dive deep enough, and let out enough 10- or 12-pound line for the lure to make occasional bottom contact without pounding or excessively fouling. Then weave your way along structural edges, proceeding shallower until your bait starts to touch. Then lean the boat out deeper, until the bait begins to run free. Feel the change in vibration as it comes off the lip. Then lean back in again, progressively following the edges of major structures. You'll be surprised by how much territory you can cover while trolling at miles per hour rather than hours per mile.

Trolling weededges is more challenging; lots of greenery to snag, uproot, and foul. Follow a few helpful guidelines: Run shorter lines and use deeper-diving lures that float back to the surface when you stop. Shorter lines help weave in and out of twists and turns along the weedline, tickling the edges of deeper weeds on the fringe. When you start to feel weed contact, turn out deeper, perhaps giving the rod a quick forward wrist snap to help rip the lure free. If the vibration diminishes, give it a few more rips to hopefully clean the lure. If it still feels wrong, slow down and reel in to remove the offending greenery. Then repeat.

Fouled lures are a fact of life in weeds. The best trollers tickle the edges while sustaining the fewest hangups. Time and experience are good teachers. Patience and avoiding frustration are key.

As you become familiar with the intriguing contours of weedbeds, you learn to anticipate turns and bring your lures through the fish zone with fewer foul-ups. Watch your depthfinder and turn the boat, based upon where your following lure will travel, not simply the path of the boat. Sounds easier than it is, and even the best trollers make mistakes and bring their lures too deeply into the weed fringe to come through cleanly.

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