Slipping Splits In Current
Split-shotting--one of the oldest and most basic tactics--is a quintessential kernel for success in shore fishing for river walleyes. A #10 Aberdeen-style hook and split shot has likely taken more walleyes than most anglers can fathom.

A split-shot rig shines in rivers when currents are slow or water levels are low. Location also plays a role. Despite low water levels, slow currents still swirl around points and wing dams extending into the river. Walleyes remain in these locations, often in a neutral activity mode. Eddies still are present in low water, but not as evident as in higher water levels.

Livebait options depend on time of year, usually minnows, crawlers, leeches, or sucker minnows. Minnows are the bait of choice for spring, while leeches and crawlers come into play in summer. Leeches perform best in warmer water, which spurs their undulating swimming movement. Crawlers are handy for shorebound anglers; just tote a small, lightweight styrofoam cooler with an ice pack to keep 'em cool, wriggling, and ready for action. Chubs and suckers also are great in summer and are perhaps the best fall presentation. One drawback is having to carry a bucket of water.

To begin, hook minnows or suckers just below the back fin without nicking the spine. This allows a minnow to swim freely, struggling in all directions, while the split shot rests on the bottom. If this doesn't produce, try hooking the minnow up through the lips. This creates a more neutral presentation, because a lip-hooked minnow tends to rest rather than struggle and attempt to swim away. This approach excels on dead-calm days with a high sun. Hook leeches through the sucker, crawlers through the collar, for maximum freedom of movement.

Use a 6- to 61/2-foot, light-action spinning rod--even a 7-footer if you're comfortable with it--with 6-pound-test line. The longer the rod, the farther you can cast and the better you can pick up slack line on a hookset. Use any style of sharp livebait hook that matches the bulk of the bait: #8 for leeches, #6 for crawlers, #4 through perhaps #1 for minnows. Small lightweight hooks won't stifle bait activity and create a more natural presentation. Also, include a selection of split shot in different sizes.

Tie on the hook and place the split shot about 2 feet above the hook. Add your bait, and cast. Simple enough.

Cast upstream to the head of the eddy. Let the rig sink to the bottom, maintaining a tight line. Once the bait has settled to bottom, give it a good ten seconds of idle time, during which it begins to swim and wiggle. Then lift the rod tip just enough to raise the rig off bottom, slipdrift for two to three seconds, and then settle back down to bottom again. Repeat.

Current speed and bait size determine split shot size. If your rig sinks quickly to the bottom without drifting at all in the current, remove some weight. If it drifts for more than five seconds before settling on the bottom, add weight. Adjust accordingly, resizing shot. Repeat this tactic all the way through the eddy. Once the drift is finished, reel in and cast back to the head of the eddy.

Strikes on this presentation are soft ticks or pickups; some bites simply transmit a slight twitch to the line. That's why it's so important to keep a tight line throughout the drift to sense a subtle bite.

This presentation is comparable to a deadstick presentation used to trigger reluctant walleyes. While primarily used as a shore technique, the same tactic can be applied from a boat.

Where Still Waters Run Deepest Near Shore
On lakes and reservoirs in summer, shoreline walleye activity is often confined to periods of reduced sunlight penetration, typically triggered by clouds and rain, onshore winds, lowlight periods at dawn and dusk, and throughout the night. In general, walleyes usually are reluctant to cross large shallow flats under a bright sunlit sky. But where deeper areas swing relatively close to shore, and under ideal conditions, walleyes quickly traverse the intermediate flat to trap baitfish against the shoreline. Even daytime bites can be fast and furious within casting distance of shore, although the odds go to the hours spanning dusk and dawn.

The key, as in all shorebound strategies, is to plant your feet in distinctive areas that draw the fish to you, rather than hoofing long distances and fancasting open water. Focal points include: river or creek inlets, bridges and causeways, points extending into the lake or reservoir, flooded roadbeds, inundated timber and brush, inside weededges, riprap, and lipped shorelines.

The term "lipped" refers to a shoreline that plunges immediately to 2 or 3 feet of water (or more), forming a wall against which walleyes trap baitfish, as opposed to a shallow taper which prevents walleyes from moving all the way up to shore in pursuit of minnows. Lipped shorelines, often associated with manmade riprap or natural boulder outcroppings, usually are best with the wind blowing in, but check 'em even in calm conditions. They're primary ambush spots for wind-activated hungry 'eyes.

Local conditions dictate whether or not you can reach and catch fish from the bank, or must wade out in your shorts, swimsuit, hip boots, or waders to reach the fish. Use a 7-foot medium- to fast-action spinning rod. Common choices range from shallow minnow-imitating crankbaits, to neutrally buoyant suspending minnows, shad-bodied crankbaits, and 1/8- to 1/4-ounce jigheads tipped with 3- to 5-inch soft plastic grubs, shad bodies, fluke tails, tubes, or other personal favorites.

The traditional favorite line is 8- to 10-pound monofilament, which is suitable for achieving fair distance on the cast with lightweight lures. Switching to nostretch superline, however, greatly enhances casting distance and effectiveness. Consider adding a 6- to 8-foot monofilament or fluorocarbon leader between the lure and superline to add invisibility and shock resistance to the opaque superline.

With minnow-imitators and shad baits, use a slow, steady retrieve interspersed with occasional short pauses. With suspending baits, try extending the length of the pauses; the lure will suspend rather than rise to the surface. Jig & plastic combos, of course, can be hopped, paused, swum--whatever it takes to match the mood of nearby walleyes.

In a pinch, consider a lighted slip bobber, 1/32-ounce jighead, and either leeches or crawlers to tempt fussy, spooky biters on calm nights. But in most conditions, walleyes that are up shallow are there to feed and will respond to more aggressive approaches. And while the cool-water conditions of spring and fall are most conducive to shallow shoreline bites, there are plenty of conditions where you can catch waist-deep walleyes in summer, too.