Screen Scene: What to Know About Graph Mounts and Support

Over the past year in this column, I’ve discussed the value of modern electronics. I hope you’ve learned a thing or two—truth is, there’s no wrong answer to how you choose to outfit your boat or how you enjoy fishing. But if you invest in gear, it’s best to know how to keep it safe and supported. Don’t go cheap on graph mounts, or the hardware required to attach them, or you can end up with something broken—or worse yet, a damaged boat.

I’ve spent a lot of time working with several brands that I have faith in: Bass Boat Technologies, BalZout Mounts, and FishFinderMounts.com, to name a few. There are a number of companies out there you can depend on, yet what’s right for our boats may not be right for yours. At In-Fisherman we use a combination of BalZout and FishFinderMounts on our Starcraft and Smokercraft TV boats, and I run Bass Boat Technologies mounts on my Skeeter. Do your research and some shopping, see what people have to say on social media, and make an educated decision.

Before we talk about mounts, a few questions first. What’s your attachment point made of? Wood? Aluminum? Fiberglass? Will it support a heavy graph? Will you need to add backing plates? Is there room for your estimated configuration? Is it removable? Will your boat cover still fit with all this gear installed? Factors to consider for sure. Let’s briefly touch on a few of them.

Materials

Plywood—More and more boats nowadays are avoiding wood in their builds because wood rots and warps, especially when it gets wet—even marine-grade, pressure-treated stuff. Eventually, it becomes soft and won’t support graph stands as well as it did when it was new. Keep your boat dry and clean and you’ll add life to your rig. Store it inside if possible. When attaching gear like 10-, 12-, 13-, and even 19-inch graphs, there is torque concern—constant jolting and hitting waves affects the materials in your rig. A heavy graph on a tall mount will naturally incur gravity impacts that eventually weaken the connection point.

The best way for a secure connection to plywood is to use sturdy bolts, washers, and nuts. I suggest stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners—other types of materials react with chemicals in green-treated wood, which encourages rust. I also suggest extra-large washers to spread out the pressure on the underside for a strong bite. Or consider fabricating a backing plate from aluminum or stainless or galvanized steel.

Fiberglass—Fiberglass is probably the strongest material to attach mounts to, but I hate working with it. The powdery dust and splinters get old quick (as I type this my hands are torn up after several days of rigging my Skeeter). It’s tough, durable, and solid, making it a reliable surface to rig graphs. Note: If you pre-drill a pilot hole, the diameter of that hole should be close to the size of the shaft of the screw, but not larger than the screw threads or you risk stripping out the hole. Self-tappers work well with fiberglass, but if you don’t drill the right-size hole, the screw head could break off and then you’ve got a big problem. I prefer bolts to screws in most rigging situations, but sometimes you can’t reach an attachment point and screws might be your only option. Measure three times, cut/drill once.

Fiberglass often requires a backing plate or large washers to provide the right amount of support for heavy items. If a graph mount becomes loose, it will wobble and create stress fractures or cracks in the clear coat. Attach it properly, check it often, and you’ll avoid those headaches.

Aluminum—While a soft metal, aluminum is tough and reliable, but you do need to be conscientious of providing adequate backing support. Some boats utilize sheet metal for the base structure, some use high density polyethylene beneath thin layers of aluminum, and others use marine-grade plywood. Each of these components by themselves doesn’t make for a sturdy base on which to rig, but together the combination lasts for years.

Same rules apply. Make sure the fasteners won’t chemically react to the boat materials—stainless steel works, but chemically speaking, aluminum and steel react to each other—and moisture accelerates the process. The likelihood that you see a noticeable reaction is unlikely, but zinc is a fine alternative here. Make sure you’ve added large washers and/or a backing plate to provide the most strength possible.

Compact, Secure, and Flush-Mounted

Consider the height you need your graph to sit, then understand that the higher it stands the more torque will be exerted on the base. I feel a compact mount with moderate adjustability is a great way to go—keep it low and out of the way. The BalZout Mounts we have on our TV boats are ideal for the kind of fishing we do, when you consider the amount of graph reorganization we get into on a regular basis.

Mostly, we keep graphs close to the mounting point, but with the BalZout system we can add arms to extend and adjust the direction the graph faces depending on what the fishing situation demands. Plus, we usually remove graphs at night if we stay at a hotel and while we’re driving, which adds life to your mounts and attachment points.

Products are available that lock the graph to the gimbal and mount. DuraSafe E-Lock, for example, replaces the knobs on your graph/gimbal connection with a keyed lock.

Many fishing boats today also offer the option to flush-mount a graph at the dash and/or bow. This is a convenient way to make a fishfinder secure and viewable, but you often can only mount the one graph per location in that scenario. If you’re looking to add two or more graphs at each location, flush-mount options may not be best.

No Rigging Job is the Same

Mounting points and applications are different from boat to boat. For example, our Starcraft STX 2050 features a dual console that is raised and protected by a glass windshield. While I love having a windshield, especially on cold and wet days, it does reduce the space to mount graphs at the helm. We run two Humminbird Solix 10s at the dash, and it took some creativity to get them both on there. With the versatility and adjustability of the BalZout mounts, it works perfectly. We couldn’t fit two 12-inch screens in there, however, but 10-inch units offer plenty of viewable real estate and I don’t miss having 12-inch units there.

On a tiller drive, you’d likely want your captain’s chair to be within easy reach and viewing distance of a couple graphs. There are lots of great options to work with, and I’ve used the large D-size Ram Mounts and can attest to their reliability—the shorter, more compact arms are your best bet for a long lifespan. Gravity plays a role over time with longer extended arms, which are often required in many rigging situations.

For most bass boats, conversion kits are available to rig to your exact specifications at the console and the bow. On my Skeeter ZXR, I went with Bass Boat Technologies for a few reasons. First, the mounts are bullet-proof, but company owner Van Foster is a mad scientist when it comes to rigging any combination of graphs on just about any boat. His dedication to customer service and common-sense solutions shows in every product BBT sells.

The short of it is you need to determine the combination of graphs and where you intend to mount them. That’s the first step. Then you need to consider the rigging plan and how to maximize floor space and ability to run cables. Quality and sturdy components make all the difference, and be sure to reinforce whenever possible. Then recheck connections on a regular basis and reseat any loose nuts and bolts.

Specialized Support

On my previous bass boat, I had a specialized mounting device for my Humminbird Mega 360 sonar pole. The Big Rig Bassin’ 360 Sonar Quick Disconnect Mount was super handy for various reasons. The ability to quickly unclamp the sonar pole and stow it when I was fishing ultra-shallow water or when I put the travel cover on the boat was worth the investment. It retrofits to the bottom of the trolling motor yoke. Specific mounting plates are available for different trolling motor brands.

There are also a few options for live-sonar gunnel mounts as an alternative to rigging to your trolling motor shaft. Consider FishFinderMounts.com, Sniper Marine, Railblaza, GeigerTec, TH Marine, and, of course, Garmin, Humminbird, and Lowrance for branded versions of the same mounts to support their transducers. There are also a few transom-mount options for forward-facing sonar such as Fish Fighter Products, RyTec Marine, and more.

A quick Google search will help you decide what’s best for your rig. Also consult your local dealer and boat rigging specialist for advice. If the project is more easily accomplished by consulting a professional, that’s a great way to go.

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