As power demands increase along with graph size, hitting the ice fully prepared will help you gather more information to catch more fish.
March 20, 2025
By Thomas Allen
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Fishing seems to be in a constant state of evolution, especially in recent years. Being experimental with innovative minds, ice anglers have found ways to take modern technology mostly used on open water and apply it to ice fishing with impressive results .
As graph screens get bigger and more complex, which certainly provides an abundance of information, demand for adequate power to run all the latest and greatest technology increases. Without going back to the origins of ice-fishing electronics, not too long ago, flashers were critical for determining depth and identifying structure and the presence of fish. Compared to modern technology like Humminbird’s Mega 360 , Mega Live , Garmin’s Livescope and others, flashers still hold a viable place in an ice angler’s arsenal.
As the need for information increases, many anglers are taking units with 9-, 10-, and even 12-inch screens to the ice to maximize data output. Seem overkill? Perhaps, but consider running 2D sonar and mapping simultaneously; or how about forward-facing sonar and another application at the same time? You run out of visible data quickly on anything smaller than a 10- or 12-inch screen.
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Last winter, I rigged a Humminbird Helix 12 to an ice shuttle. It was bitter cold, and sitting or kneeling on the ice wasn’t easy due to the amount of clothing I had on, so standing was best. Thanks to the big screen, I was able to read it comfortably from a standing position and remain comfortable. It’s also possible my aging eyes preferred the larger graph, as well.
But each graph and transducer needs power, and changing batteries with frosty fingers can be brutal. What size and type of battery makes the most sense? That depends on a few factors including how big the screen is, preferred settings, what kind of transducer(s) are connected, how long you intend to utilize the unit between charges, and more.
Battery Selection There’s little doubt that the lithium battery craze has taken the industry by storm, and there are numbers of great brands to consider including Dakota Lithium , X2Power, Norsk , PowerHouse, and more. The weight difference alone makes them worth the investment, and most lithiums come with an impressive warranty.
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This is the most common battery size for ice electronics. The Dakota Lithium 10Ah is in the traditional “Robo-duck decoy” size, and it fits perfectly in most graph shuttles. There are several different types of lithium batteries, but for the most part LiFePO4 is the best option for powering fishing electronics . We don’t have the room here to perform a deep dive into all the types of lithium power, so let’s just compare a LiFePO4 to a standard lithium-ion battery. First, consider your periodic table: LiFePO4 is a combination of lithium (Li), iron (Fe), and phosphate (PO4). That combination is recognized for their resiliency and long life when compared to other lithium batteries, plus LiFePO4 is cobalt-free.
Standard lithium-ion batteries consist of LiCoO2—lithium (Li), cobalt (Co), oxide (O2), and graphite—and are popular power sources for mobile phones, laptops, and other electronic devices. Lithium-ion, however, doesn’t perform as well as LiFePO4 for fishing electronics, especially in cold conditions.
LiFePO4 vs. Standard Lithium-Ion LiFePO4 self-discharges about 3 percent per month while lithium-ion self-discharges at 5 percent per month. LiFePO4 features lower energy level and lower voltage while lithium-ion produces a higher energy level and higher voltage—both have their place within certain powering applications. LiFePO4 boasts approximately 2,000 to 6,000 life cycles while lithium-ion runs far less at 800 to 1,000 life cycles. LiFePO4 is generally heavier than lithium-ion, but both are far lighter than lead-acid batteries. LiFePO4 functions well within temperature ranges from -4°F to 140°F while lithium-ion’s temperature range is 32°F to 113°F. Safety Despite a lingering fear of the risk of fires with lithium batteries, modern LiFePO4 batteries are extremely safe and reliable. When selecting a battery for your boat or ice gear, always pick one with a built-in battery management system (BMS) that monitors battery parameters such as voltage, current, temperature, and state of charge. The BMS also provides protections from short circuit, reverse polarity, and cell balancing to prevent damage and minimize risk.
Consider keeping a few smaller batteries handy instead of one big one—this is based on how the shuttle will accommodate the battery footprint. Calculating Amp Hours So, how big of a battery do you need? Some simple calculations will help you make an educated selection. Amp draw is measured in amp hours (Ah). You can refer to your graph’s user manual or visit the manufacturer’s website, but a Google search will return amp draw per hour for each unit and/or transducer. For example, consider the Garmin LiveScope Ice Bundle: the Garmin 9-inch EchoMap head unit pulls at maximum 1.25 amps per hour (round that up to 2) and the LiveScope transducer pulls up to 2 amps per hour for a total of 4 amps per hour. That means to have full power for an 8-hour day, you’ll need 32 Ah of battery power, or up to 48 Ah for a 12-hour day.
The question you need to answer is how long you intend to fish, on average. I always round up to provide a cushion for extended use, so that means you’ll likely need a 46- to 50-Ah battery to last a full 12 hours. You can adjust your needs accordingly, but always power up beyond to your average usage; not enough power will end a day prematurely. Perhaps a couple smaller 12- to 18-Ah batteries is the best solution for your situation. Just plan to swap batteries out once or twice during the day. Also note that the shuttle may only accommodate a certain battery footprint, which may require a few power sources as opposed to one larger battery. In short, know the amp-hour draw from each piece of equipment that requires power and equip yourself adequately so the day won’t end early.
Power-Saving Methods The amp-hour-draw example above is based on the unit pulling full power for the duration of your outing. There are a few simple ways to conserve battery life and get the most out of your unit.
Innovative anglers will find ways to haul multiple battery systems to the ice, and even understand that the same batteries can be used in kayaks and boats during the open-water season. Here the author modified a hard-shell case to carry and protect multiple types of batteries, these same cases power his kayaks during the spring and summer. Make sure your battery is fully charged before you leave the house and make it a habit to recharge the battery as you return. Charge batteries a few times during the off-season to extend your batteries’ health. Turn the screen brightness down to half. If the brightness of the day requires you to run it at full power, go for it. When not necessary, reducing brightness saves power. Turn the unit off when traveling between spots. Track battery usage and remaining power through the battery’s associated smartphone app. Most companies such as X2Power offer an intuitive app that allows you to monitor how your lithium battery is consuming power and functioning. Keep an extra battery on hand. Stay Powered Up Don’t neglect batteries that have been exhausted—this is how they die. Top them off daily during the season for improved battery health and longevity. Keeping your gear running keeps you on the ice longer, and that equals more fish. Don’t skimp on power.
Finally, LiFePO4 is the best option for powering all fishing electronics. There is a substantial up-front expense with lithium batteries, but with the impressive warranties that generally come with each battery, and if you care for them so they last their intended lifetime, the cost in the long run is actually often cheaper than traditional lead-acid batteries.
