August 23, 2012
By In-Fisherman
Mississippi River, Memphis
James "Big Cat" Patterson of Bartlett, Tennessee, has been fishing for blue catfish for almost 30 years, guiding professionally for the past decade on the Mississippi River in the vicinity of Memphis, Tennessee. Most of his days are spent pursuing trophy blues, although he's also wise to the ways of the river's channel and flathead catfish. He's an accomplished tournament angler, too, with big finishes at a variety of events.
Revetment banks—Patterson is familiar with the numerous wing dams jettying from shore into the Mississippi, and has caught many notable blues from the scour holes around these structures. "Wing dams can be good any time of the year, but they're also feast or famine," he says. "The best ones have well-defined holes, but those are becoming scarce because many of the older dams have filled in with sediment, and the remaining good ones get fished so heavily that it's sometimes hard to get on a good spot." So Patterson often focuses on alternative locations that might hold blue cats.
"Some of my favorite spots to fish in summer and early fall are faster current areas adjacent to revetment banks," he says. Expansive revetment blankets, consisting of concrete slabs tied together with cable, are laid along the shoreline and often covered with riprip for added stability. Revetment is installed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to stabilize and protect highly erodable riverbanks where the force of the current is greatest.
"These banks provide structure and cover attractive to big blue cats and their prey, especially where older sections of revetment are falling apart," he notes. "Over time, riprap is redistributed, cables break, and the water washes out holes between and under the slabs where they've broken apart. In other places slabs have buckled, creating areas of current protection near bottom that hold big blues.
"I avoid fishing revetment banks when the current's so fast that I can't use any sinker weighing less than a pound," he says. "In summer and early fall, I prefer fishing a lower water stage, bringing the bank closer to the channel edge in about 35 to 40 feet of water. At lower river stages, the current is still swift along revetment banks and the blues like the current, but I can fish them with sinkers of 12 ounces or less."
Patterson uses primarily skipjack herring for bait, either freshly caught or previously vacuum-sealed and frozen for later use. He baits with the head, chunks or steaks from the larger back portion, or with fillets. Before steaking, the entire belly-meat section, including entrails, is cut out and wrapped together with rubber bands, creating another dandy bait. At times, he also uses whole gizzard shad.
Baits are delivered on three-way rigs with a 7/0 to 10/0 Kahle or wide-gap hook, tied to an 18- to 24-inch section of 60-pound-mono leader, and a 3-ounce or heavier casting or cannonball sinker tied to a 20- to 30-pound-test dropper, with current speed dictating sinker weight. While fishing from an anchored position and for weights up to about 4 ounces, he uses 7-foot heavy-power Quantum Cabo PT rods. In faster currents requiring heavier sinkers, he switches to 71â„2-foot medium-heavy to heavy-power Quantum Big Cat rods. He prefers using stiffer rods for feel and hook-setting power. Quantum Cabo PT level-wind trolling reels spooled with 65-pound Stren Super Braid complete the setup.
Dropper Rigs These rigs can perform well for panfish, like crappies and perch, that are feeding near bottom. One rig is called the dropper-loop rig for the looped snells holding the hooks off the 6- to 12-pound-test monofilament mainline. Sinker size ranges from 1/2 to 2 ounces depending on conditions. Typically, one to three pre-tied snells are secured 12 to 18 inches above the sinker for presenting multiple baits simultaneously, state laws allowing.Drop-shot rig — The drop-shot rig is a type of dropper rig, often used in bass fishing. On a drop-shot-rig, the hook is attached directly to the mainline rather than on a loop or leader shooting off the mainline. Below the hook is a sinker fixed to the end of the mainline. The rig allows baits to be presented off bottom a set distance, and is effective with livebaits, as well as with artificial softbaits such as worm, grub, and minnow imitations. On a drop-shot rig, baits can be worked very still, or jiggled and twitched, to attract fish and trigger strikes.
Generic Egg Sinker Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Generic Slip Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Lindy Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Northland Roach Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Rubbercor Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Slipsinker Rig Teamed with livebait, the slipsinker rig has accounted for more walleyes than any other presentation, but this versatile rig also is a favorite of catfish anglers and has taken many bass, pike, sturgeon, and panfish. The heart of this rig is a sinker that slides on the monofilament or braid mainline above a barrel swivel. For walleyes, for example, you might use a 1/4-ounce walking sinker, 6- to 10-pound monofilament mainline, and a leader of 4- to 10-pound monofilament or fluorocarbon, with an octopus style hook of a size appropriate for the bait. For larger fish, like big catfish, upgrade to line tests of 20 to 30 pounds or more. As with the split-shot rig, the length of the leader determines bait action and control. Use sinker weights appropriate for current and depth. Slipsinker rigs used in strong current might require sinkers up to 8 ounces or more.
The slipsinker rig can be cast and slowly retrieved, slowly trolled, or used as a stationary presentation, so the depth of the water, bottom terrain, and how fast the bait is being moved by the boat, current, or during retrieval, all play a part in determining the weight of the sinker. The sinker usually is a boot-shaped walking sinker or egg- or bell-shaped sinker for gravel and sandy bottoms, or a bullet sinker in weeds and wood. Beads or blades are sometimes added to the leader in front of the hook as an attractant.
Because the mainline slips through the sinker, anglers often find it to their advantage to let a fish 'run ' with the bait, fishing the presentation with an open spool and letting the fish pull line off the spool with the least resistance possible. This gives the fish more time to get the bait further in its mouth or throat, which can cause more — often lethal — injury to fish. If you can set the hook quickly, or fish on a tight line, it's often better to do so, especially if you intend to release your catch.
Slip Float Rigs This is the rig that just about every angler fishing today started out with that first time they went fishing, although most were probably too young to remember. Nothing too fancy, just a float or 'bobber ' a couple of feet up the line from some split shot, and a hook baited with a worm below that. Works like magic on panfish.
There are two primary types of float rigs — fixed-float and slipfloat. The fixed float is just that, when the float is fixed to a certain point on the line, and is best fished in situations where the fish are feeding shallow, say four feet or less. The slipfloat rig allows the float to slide up and down the line so you can fish in deeper water. A small bobber stop is fastened on the line somewhere above the bobber to limit how far up the line the bobber can slide, determining how deep the bait is fished. When the rig is reeled in, the stop goes through the rod guides and onto the spool of the reel to allow for casting and retrieving.
While the fixed-float rig is a good way to target shallow fish like crappies, bass, sunfish, catfish, and trout, the slipfloat rig's ability to go deep broadens the potential species list to include pike, walleye, muskie, striper, and more. A longer light-to-medium action spinning rod, about 7 feet long, with a slow to moderate action, spooled with 4- to 8-pound monofilament, is a good choice for a float rig. Hooks should be matched to the bait, such as a #4 to #8 baitholder hook for angleworms and nightcrawlers, for example, although a jig also can be used.
Fishing a float rig often is a case of not doing anything at all, letting the bait do the fish-attracting work, as the float is slowly moved by wave action on the surface. Both rigs should be cast by gently swinging the rig sideways and behind you, then thrusting the rod toward the target with a slight upward motion as you release the line. You want to lob the rig to a specific spot as gently as possible. If the wind is blowing, or you're fishing in current, target your cast so that the wind or current moves the rig into your target zone. In other instances, a little bit of action added by quick twitches of the rod tip or even substantial pulls that move the bait up in the water column and then let it settle, induces strikes. The float signals when a fish is on the line, a visual experience that remains exciting to anglers no matter their age or fishing experience.
Standard Three-Way Rig An alternative to the set rig is sometimes called the bottom rig or three-way rig. While this rig can be used from the boat, slowly trolled, it also works well as a stationary presentation. Instead of attaching the mainline to the sinker, the mainline is attached to a three-way swivel, with a dropper line to the sinker, and a leader and hook. This adaptation allows the bait to move a little higher off the bottom.
Weedless Bullet Sinker Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Split Shot Rig A hook tied on the end of the line with a sinker pinched on the line above the hook might be one of the best-producing panfish presentations of all time, but it works for bigger fish, too. Most often fished with livebait like nightcrawlers, angleworms, minnows, or maggots, this rig can work with some softbaits, like smaller worms and curlytail grubs. The beauty of this rig is that it lets the bait swim free to attract fish with its natural movement. The closer to the hook the sinker is placed the less movement allowed; the farther away the hook and sinker are separated the less control you have and bites can be missed. The number and weight of the sinkers is determined by depth, current, and size of the bait. You want just enough weight to keep the bait freely moving and in the strike zone.
Due to the light weight of this rig, it's usually fished in water shallower than about 20 feet, and most often shallower than 8 feet, with a 6- to 7- foot slow to medium action, medium-light power spinning rod with 4- to 8-pound-test monofilament line. The split-shot rig can be gently cast and slowly retrieved, fished stationary, or allowed to drift. Follow the drift with your rod tip to be sure it drifts naturally and doesn't snag.
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"Along a typical revetment bank, I anchor in about 25 to 30 feet of water, positioning baits along the slope from about 25 to 40 feet deep. One of the most effective presentations in summer and early fall is to 'walk' baits behind the anchored boat. If I'm fishing alone, I set one bait to fish stationary while I walk the other," he says.
After a short cast behind the boat or after releasing the rig boatside, he thumbs the open spool while the bait drifts slightly downstream and to bottom. Once bottom is felt, the spool is again thumbed and the rod tip lifted slightly, to allow the current to carry the sinker and bait downstream in short increments of 6 inches to a foot.
Critical Concepts . . . Catfish Presentation—River Strategies
"It's important to feel the sinker thump bottom as you walk a bait," he says. "Some of my clients not familiar with feeling bottom, continue to let out line on a snagged rig; so the current carries line downstream while the rig is stuck in one spot. Because the right sinker weight helps maintain bottom contact and feel, I bring sinkers in the range of 3 to 12 ounces to suit different current speeds. Sinkers that are too light move too quickly; ones that are too heavy don't allow the bait to move downstream on the subtle lifts. The feel of sinker on bottom is also what makes a stiff and sensitive rod important," he notes.
"Walking is a great way to stay in contact with your bait and for identifying bottom objects like rock, concrete slabs, and other cover that accumulates in revetment areas," Patterson says. "Baits can be walked effectively as far back as 200 feet, and I think this mimics natural food items that slowly tumble downstream over bottom. The sinker thumping bottom might also attract fall catfish to the bait. The farther downstream the bait is and the flatter the line, the more slowly you can walk the rig. As a general rule, the faster the current is flowing, the harder a blue cat strikes a walking bait."
Drifting sandbars—From summer into early fall, Patterson's preferred method for locating and catching big blue catfish is to drift the Mississippi's expansive sandbars. "The best sandbars are those with rollercoaster bottoms," he says, "with depths typically ranging from 25 feet on the tops of the sand humps to 45 feet in the troughs. I've caught blue cats drifting in water as shallow as 15 feet and as deep as 94 feet."
Big Cat's rigs for drifting are three-ways, with a Kahle hook tied to an 18- to 24-inch leader of 40-pound mono, and a 20- to 30-pound mono dropper of the same length to hold the sinker—4 ounces in most cases, which is usually plenty to feel bottom. He prefers the cannonball-style sinker for drifting because it makes a good thump on the sand, using a 7-foot medium-heavy to heavy Quantum Cabo PT trigger-handle casting rod, and a Cabo PT trolling reel spooled with 40-pound-test Super Braid. Clients can hold the lightweight rod for long periods without fatigue, and the graphite is sensitive for feeling sinkers on bottom. He baits drift rigs with golfball-sized chunks of skipjack.
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"I use a controlled drift, slowing the drift with a trolling motor while keeping the bow pointed upstream," he says. This method, often referred to as "slipping," allows baits to be fished more vertically and on a shorter line, helping to control them while maintaining feel and contact with bottom. "Drifting is best using a short line, with the bait bouncing bottom about 20 feet downstream of the boat. The line's usually at about a 10-degree angle. It's important not to jig the rig too aggressively. Subtle lifts and drops of the rod tip are just enough to help the bait scoot along on bottom in the current. The steep line angle also keeps the bait swimming downstream slightly above bottom, while the sinker thumps it along the way," he explains.
Most of Patterson's catches while drifting occur on the upstream portions of the drop-off from a hump into a hole. "When approaching a hole, it's important to slow the drift and let out line to maintain contact with bottom, keeping the steep line angle. The extra time also allows blues to find the bait. They often hit it on the fall as line is let out to reach bottom," he says, "and they commonly swim straight up with the bait in their mouth, which is why I like a fairly long rod to take up slack in a hurry."
He relies on good electronics to adjust the depths of his rigs to work bottom, as the depths change over the series of humps and troughs, and also uses a GPS unit to adjust course to stay on trails of productive drifts.
"If I'm fishing with clients who have a difficult time maintaining contact with bottom while on a controlled drift, I switch to dragging baits over the same sandbar areas," he says. "It's an easier way for beginners to fish, and it's also effective. I shorten the sinker dropper on three-way rigs or use Carolina rigs to drag baits. The sinker dragging bottom creates a plume that might be an additional trigger. When blue cats take a bait, they're notorious for swimming downstream towards the boat, so it's important to watch for slack line that often indicates a bite. Reel up slack quickly and set the hook."
Missouri & Mississippi Rivers, St. Louis
Carl Roberts, St. Louis, Missouri, is a quick study in locating and catching big blue catfish. He wasn't exposed to fishing growing up—rather, he played a variety of sports until three knee surgeries sidelined him. Then he took up catfishing, beginning as a bank angler. After a couple of years he bought his first boat and caught a chronic case of the catfishing bug. He now guides professionally and is a serious competitor in catfish tournaments.
He primarily targets big blues, although he fishes for channel catfish, as well. Most of his pursuits are in the lowermost reach of the Missouri River—from its mouth at the Mississippi upstream to Weldon Springs, Missouri; and from the Mississippi north of St. Louis upstream to Grafton, Illinois. Although he finds daytime fishing productive, his day job forces him to be on the water most often during the evening and after dark.
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Roberts puts skipjack herring at the top of the list for big blue cats. In the areas he fishes, this baitfish typically begins to appear in late March to early April. "I catch them on small curlytail jigs with a red head and white body, but other colors like chartreuse and black work well, too," he says. "I also use Sabiki rigs with four jigs, sometimes catching multiple skipjacks at a time. The best spots are where they concentrate in turbulent water below dams and around wing dams. As the river cools in October and November, they can be caught at warmwater discharges." He vacuum-seals and freezes whole baitfish to keep year-round.
Bluff banks —While he also fishes wing dams when conditions are right, some of his favorite spots for targeting big blue cats are the bluff banks scattered along the lower Missouri. "The bluffs are always my first stop," he says, "because the characteristics of bottom along these banks attract big catfish."
Over long periods of time, weathering and erosion have loosened chunks of rock that fall from the bluff and accumulate in the river. "The larger chunks on bottom serve as current deflectors, with catfish holding downstream of them. You snag and lose a lot of rigs, but the catches outweigh the costs of losing lead. I also duck behind bluff banks to fish when high winds prevent effective fishing in open-water areas," he says.
To fish the bluffs, Roberts uses slipsinker rigs consisting of an 8/0 Gamakatsu Circle hook tied on a 12- to 18-inch leader of 50-pound-test Berkley Big Game. The leader is tied to a strong barrel swivel connected to 80-pound Spiderwire Stealth mainline, after sliding on a No-Roll slipsinker from 3 to 8 ounces, depending on current. He pours his own No-Rolls using Do-It Molds. "I prefer the No-Roll sinker style when fishing rocky areas, because flat sinker design keeps it from settling into and snagging in cracks less often than egg sinkers," he says. He uses Shakespeare Ugly Stik Tiger rods matched with Shakespeare Tidewater T20L or Abu Garcia 7000 C3 reels.
The river next to a typical bluff is about 18 to 20 feet deep. Roberts pinpoints likely catfish holding areas along the bluff and anchors about 30 to 40 yards upstream. "I set baits to cover depths where the chunk rock has settled, which is in about 20 to 25 feet as the bottom slopes from the bluff into the channel. I let baits drift along bottom in current, allowing them to settle behind larger chunk boulders. If my rig snags, I let it fish, because blue cats often pull it free when they strike," he says. He relies on a 15-pound Digger Anchor to hold steadfast in current over bottoms from sand to rock. Jerking the rope on the Digger trips a mechanism to straighten the flukes for easier retrieval.
Bridges —"The big concrete pilings that support the bridges spanning the rivers are good spots for big blue cats," Roberts says. "The best pilings have a lot of fast current rushing by. The fast water scours holes, and the pilings break current on the downstream side. I anchor about 40 yards upstream from the piling and cast, letting baits drift and settle in the scour hole on the side of the piling and also behind it on the downstream side.
"Blue cats hole up in these areas eating food that drifts along and gets washed behind the pillars," he says. One of his favorite bridge pilings has a scour hole about 24 feet deep on one side that wraps slightly around the downstream end to a depth of about 16 feet. An 80-pound behemoth blue, Roberts' largest, was caught on a chunk of skipjack placed behind that bridge piling in April of 2006.
No fisherman hits the bull's-eye for big blue cats each time out. Blues can be nomadic, moody at times—and conditions can make their whereabouts and eagerness to feed unpredictable, often sending the most experienced catters off course. Focusing on good locations and fishing them with the most effective presentations should put you on better target to more and bigger catfish.
Dropper Rigs These rigs can perform well for panfish, like crappies and perch, that are feeding near bottom. One rig is called the dropper-loop rig for the looped snells holding the hooks off the 6- to 12-pound-test monofilament mainline. Sinker size ranges from 1/2 to 2 ounces depending on conditions. Typically, one to three pre-tied snells are secured 12 to 18 inches above the sinker for presenting multiple baits simultaneously, state laws allowing.Drop-shot rig — The drop-shot rig is a type of dropper rig, often used in bass fishing. On a drop-shot-rig, the hook is attached directly to the mainline rather than on a loop or leader shooting off the mainline. Below the hook is a sinker fixed to the end of the mainline. The rig allows baits to be presented off bottom a set distance, and is effective with livebaits, as well as with artificial softbaits such as worm, grub, and minnow imitations. On a drop-shot rig, baits can be worked very still, or jiggled and twitched, to attract fish and trigger strikes.
Generic Egg Sinker Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Generic Slip Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Lindy Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Northland Roach Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Rubbercor Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Slipsinker Rig Teamed with livebait, the slipsinker rig has accounted for more walleyes than any other presentation, but this versatile rig also is a favorite of catfish anglers and has taken many bass, pike, sturgeon, and panfish. The heart of this rig is a sinker that slides on the monofilament or braid mainline above a barrel swivel. For walleyes, for example, you might use a 1/4-ounce walking sinker, 6- to 10-pound monofilament mainline, and a leader of 4- to 10-pound monofilament or fluorocarbon, with an octopus style hook of a size appropriate for the bait. For larger fish, like big catfish, upgrade to line tests of 20 to 30 pounds or more. As with the split-shot rig, the length of the leader determines bait action and control. Use sinker weights appropriate for current and depth. Slipsinker rigs used in strong current might require sinkers up to 8 ounces or more.
The slipsinker rig can be cast and slowly retrieved, slowly trolled, or used as a stationary presentation, so the depth of the water, bottom terrain, and how fast the bait is being moved by the boat, current, or during retrieval, all play a part in determining the weight of the sinker. The sinker usually is a boot-shaped walking sinker or egg- or bell-shaped sinker for gravel and sandy bottoms, or a bullet sinker in weeds and wood. Beads or blades are sometimes added to the leader in front of the hook as an attractant.
Because the mainline slips through the sinker, anglers often find it to their advantage to let a fish 'run ' with the bait, fishing the presentation with an open spool and letting the fish pull line off the spool with the least resistance possible. This gives the fish more time to get the bait further in its mouth or throat, which can cause more — often lethal — injury to fish. If you can set the hook quickly, or fish on a tight line, it's often better to do so, especially if you intend to release your catch.
Slip Float Rigs This is the rig that just about every angler fishing today started out with that first time they went fishing, although most were probably too young to remember. Nothing too fancy, just a float or 'bobber ' a couple of feet up the line from some split shot, and a hook baited with a worm below that. Works like magic on panfish.
There are two primary types of float rigs — fixed-float and slipfloat. The fixed float is just that, when the float is fixed to a certain point on the line, and is best fished in situations where the fish are feeding shallow, say four feet or less. The slipfloat rig allows the float to slide up and down the line so you can fish in deeper water. A small bobber stop is fastened on the line somewhere above the bobber to limit how far up the line the bobber can slide, determining how deep the bait is fished. When the rig is reeled in, the stop goes through the rod guides and onto the spool of the reel to allow for casting and retrieving.
While the fixed-float rig is a good way to target shallow fish like crappies, bass, sunfish, catfish, and trout, the slipfloat rig's ability to go deep broadens the potential species list to include pike, walleye, muskie, striper, and more. A longer light-to-medium action spinning rod, about 7 feet long, with a slow to moderate action, spooled with 4- to 8-pound monofilament, is a good choice for a float rig. Hooks should be matched to the bait, such as a #4 to #8 baitholder hook for angleworms and nightcrawlers, for example, although a jig also can be used.
Fishing a float rig often is a case of not doing anything at all, letting the bait do the fish-attracting work, as the float is slowly moved by wave action on the surface. Both rigs should be cast by gently swinging the rig sideways and behind you, then thrusting the rod toward the target with a slight upward motion as you release the line. You want to lob the rig to a specific spot as gently as possible. If the wind is blowing, or you're fishing in current, target your cast so that the wind or current moves the rig into your target zone. In other instances, a little bit of action added by quick twitches of the rod tip or even substantial pulls that move the bait up in the water column and then let it settle, induces strikes. The float signals when a fish is on the line, a visual experience that remains exciting to anglers no matter their age or fishing experience.
Standard Three-Way Rig An alternative to the set rig is sometimes called the bottom rig or three-way rig. While this rig can be used from the boat, slowly trolled, it also works well as a stationary presentation. Instead of attaching the mainline to the sinker, the mainline is attached to a three-way swivel, with a dropper line to the sinker, and a leader and hook. This adaptation allows the bait to move a little higher off the bottom.
Weedless Bullet Sinker Rig Livebait rigging is used to drift or troll livebait on or near the bottom, with frequent pauses to give fish a good look at the bait. If a fish strikes, drop the rod tip toward the fish and feed a little line as it swims off. A sliding sinker reduces weight resistance. Heavier fixed sinkers risk spooking fish that strike the bait and feel unnatural pressure.
Split Shot Rig A hook tied on the end of the line with a sinker pinched on the line above the hook might be one of the best-producing panfish presentations of all time, but it works for bigger fish, too. Most often fished with livebait like nightcrawlers, angleworms, minnows, or maggots, this rig can work with some softbaits, like smaller worms and curlytail grubs. The beauty of this rig is that it lets the bait swim free to attract fish with its natural movement. The closer to the hook the sinker is placed the less movement allowed; the farther away the hook and sinker are separated the less control you have and bites can be missed. The number and weight of the sinkers is determined by depth, current, and size of the bait. You want just enough weight to keep the bait freely moving and in the strike zone.
Due to the light weight of this rig, it's usually fished in water shallower than about 20 feet, and most often shallower than 8 feet, with a 6- to 7- foot slow to medium action, medium-light power spinning rod with 4- to 8-pound-test monofilament line. The split-shot rig can be gently cast and slowly retrieved, fished stationary, or allowed to drift. Follow the drift with your rod tip to be sure it drifts naturally and doesn't snag.